A week ago I had the privilege to watch Tom Curren surfing with us in the Maldives at the Four Seasons Maldives Surfing Champions Trophy.
It sounds like a cliché but when people comment and say …”oh that person surfs like Curren…” then that really is the ultimate compliment.
The guy is a surfing genius.
His bottom turn is poetry to watch. Low, out in the flats, super compressed… it precedes every critical shazam that he does at the top.
Around the lip, the consequent and calculated position that he places his board into is un-failingly critical. That’s what earns the big points right? Turning in the steep part of the wave. Looks easy. Hard to do.
His upper body rotation intelligently steers his board according to the nuances of the wave. Leverage at its best.
Never an un-necessary body movement. Never. The definition of style.
Through the turn he draws out power through back-leg extension for longer than most.
His wave selection is second to none. Something transcendental that you or I are unlikely to ever have. His patience is part of that deal. I’ve seen him sit and wait 45 minutes for one wave. Tom Curren let’s amazing waves go through unridden. He only waits for perfect waves. On these, he finds the perfect canvass on which to create his art.
We probably aren’t that patient. We may never be able to read waves like that. And we surely will never surf as well.
But it’s certainly good to know what to aim for.
Sublime on a single fin.
(Image by Sean Scott.)
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