“Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.”
Happy New Year. Sorry for my lack of recent posts but my Word Press site crashed for some reason and we had to re-load it all.
So now I’m back and it’s Summer time here Down Under. That means small waves, warm water and lots of peeps clogging the fall lines.
So I say it’s no time to take yourself too seriously.
Grab a small-wave, fun board, paddle out and try some fresh thinking.
Improving your technique to become a more exciting surfer does take years of perseverance. Possibly up to ten thousand hours according to the intellectuals. However there’s one thing that you can do right now, this very day, in order to look better on a wave.
So many surfers with limited ability frequently appear far too busy on the wave. Sure they might be having a good time but it looks terrible don’t you think? They’re overly busy, trying too hard, weighted in all the wrong places and puffing their cheeks out to the max. Ugly.
If this is you (yes slap me because I’m guilty of it too), then try to just relax on the wave. Stand up tall. Drop the shoulders. Limp the wrists. Hey – even a little soul arch could be thrown in. Sure – if a lip presents itself for a spanking, then belt it by all means. But choose your opportunities. You’re not in a contest and ten hectic turns will never outscore one big, clean one. At least not in the style ratings.
So please – keep it simple!
Less is more.
Economy of motion.
Minimal excessive body movement.
Doing nothing is something that can be learned quickly and you can become a more stylish surfer immediately.
Remember – simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.
(And if you’re reading this with a cold, Northern Hemisphere, groundswell thumping at your doorstep – well lucky you.)
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