I had the privilege of having dinner with Occy recently and asked the 46 year old legend whether or not he thought he was surfing better with age or was he past his peak? Occ remarked that in certain conditions (think 6-8 foot Bells Bowl), he could surf better now than when he was younger.
As a 43 year old, that gives me hope that it’s not all over.
Though our bodies might be un-deniably decaying, with age should come increased wisdom of surfing technique, positioning, wave judgement, timing, patience and knowledge – meaning there’s no reason we cannot maintain our best well into our 50’s. Other inspirational examples include Gerry Lopez and Tom Carroll – guys who are ripping in their 50’s and 60’s. Slater has even floated the idea of trying to win a title in his 50’s.
A common denominator of course is fitness. Those guys are all devotees to regular yoga, SUP, swimming, running etc… They understand that our bodies are designed to be conditioned – not remain sedentary. We all live in busy pressure-cooker lives. But the ones who make time for fitness keep charging into later life. The ones who don’t spectate from the sideline. It comes down to priorities.
Which one will you become?
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