Isaac Newton wasn’t a surfer but he probably should have been.
For surfers who like a little bit of speed in their lives, the good news is that you can pretty much learn how to attain it whenever you like. Just so long as you apply Newton’s Laws of Motion… which of course say:
• 2nd Law – The acceleration (a) of a body is parallel and directly proportional to the net force (F) acting on the body, is in the direction of the net force, and is inversely proportional to the mass (m) of the body.
• 3rd Law – When two bodies interact by exerting force on each other, these action and reaction forces are equal in magnitude, but opposite in direction.
Or for dummies like me who haven’t the first clue about Physics:
For every action there is an equal and opposite reaction.
Attached below for your perusal is his original theory, brimming with potential applications for surfers.
In the case of surfing, did you know that you can have speed on tap whenever you desire? Simply by applying these principles.
a) Bend your legs
b) Tip your board to turn
c) Straighten your legs
This crouch and extension creates a push-back effect that is something like a slingshot. You will be propelled across the face with an equivalent speed and force to the extension applied through your legs.
Beginner or average surfers typically stand static on a wave in a semi crouch and get pushed along by the wave. This means they are kind of at the mercy of the wave. It’s normal for grade 1-5 surfers,
However more skilled surfers above level 6 use contraction and extension to create an internal source of speed on tap. They can accelerate virtually at will and even outrun a threatening lip or section.
It’s not until you understand and then apply this fundamental that your surfing will become dynamic and exciting.
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