But guaranteed at some stage in your life, you will drop into a steep wave of some size. It really doesn’t matter how big that is. Whatever is relative to you counts. Maybe you’re a total beginner surfer dropping down a head high slippery slide. Or an intermediate surfer on your first overhead drop. Or perhaps you’re a charger taking off at the Office on a double overhead day at HT’s. We all have our varying comfort zones and there are times where the steepness of a wave causes us to hesitate or back off.
But a tip that I often give to my surf students for their steeper take-offs is to lean forward and keep YOUR CHEST OVER YOUR FRONT KNEE.
This keeps the nose down and momentum forward – everything directed to where you went to go, which is downward and away from the throwing lip behind you. It’s a bit counter intuitive but if you wince back a little (a.k.a. ‘pull-back-itis’), then that slight un-certainty will transfer a touch of weight to your back foot and that is often just enough to put the breaks on ever so slightly and make your predicament so much worse.
You will see in these photos below (shot by Brian Overfelt and Tony Canadas) that Mark Healy, Pete Mel and Greg Long have generously demonstrated the technique of chest over front knee just for the purposes of this blog.
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