Beginner surf lesson 101.
The dreaded nose dive.
I saw it on some poor, hapless fellow this morning at my local. Small wave, big board, straight down the mine shaft. It was funny the first time but not the fifth.
Have you ever done it? Surely not.
No brainer causes like lying too far forward, too much weight on the front foot or getting up too slowly certainly play havoc with the beginner surfer.
But also, you should understand this:- big boards do not fit tight curves.
The main reason your nose pearls is that it is not fitting the curve of the face. The top part of the face has space for a board to slide down it. But that space comes to an abrupt holt down in the trough where the water curve makes and abrupt change of angle.
Therefore beginner surfers – the lesson cure is simple:-
Don’t allow the nose of your board to reach the bottom of the wave. Instead, lean, angle and steer across the face before you drop too straight for too long.
This way your rail is engaged, which helps the nose stay higher and the rocker steers you away from certain bottoming out.
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