Once again, after surfing my local point break of Noosa, I’m inspired to continue my series of how-not-to-do-it.
My latest observation is the up and down surfer.
Gliding across the face, they stand up tall, then they crouch down. They stand up. They crouch down. They stand up. They crouch down. But all for no apparent reason.
As a coach, I find it perplexing as to why they do that when there is no purpose or function to that technique. Judging by the look on their face, they probably are not too sure why they are doing it either. This is not the skill of the savant that’s for sure.
Remember – standing up (the art of leg extension) is definitely an important skill. The act of pushing your legs out straight can provide enormous speed and acceleration. However it MUST be combined with a transition to putting your board onto a rail, by weighting either your heels or toes to tilt the board to one side.
When you only push your legs out to straight, it can actually slow you down and even apply the brakes if your board is flat.
But if you’re extending your legs when your board is on rail, then that push will transfer into acceleration. Boom! Synchronicity. It’s time to hang on.
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